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Remove Existing Parts |
| Remove black plastic cover from shift console on the transmission (note that fluid can pool inside if the shift seal has been leaking). |
| Remove the cone screw from the shift cup and slip the shaft out. Remove the shift cup from the bushing and remove any pieces of broken bushing. |
| Remove shift linkage boot from firewall. Remove the cone screw from the shift coupler. Slide the couple off the shaft and remove rear shift rod from the car. |
| Remove the center seat and tray and center console if so equipped. Loosen the shift adjustment clamp bolt through the shifter access hole. Unbolt the three shifter mounting bolts and remove the shifter. Remove the access panel between the seats. |
| From under the car, push the shift rod forward into the tunnel. Remove the firewall shift bushing. Support the engine and remove the engine mount bar. Slide the shift rod out through the firewall hole and out of the car. The engine may have to be raised to clear. |
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Installation |
| Grind off the welds that hold the front portion of the shift rod into the tubing. Weld the shift rod onto the new front shift tube (1). The overall length of the new assembly should be 32 ¾ inches. |
| Slide the front shift tube into the tunnel and let it fall inside out of the way. |
| Place the firewall bearing holder (2) against the firewall. Note the offset of the bearing goes up and to the driver’s side. Center the bearing over the linkage hole and drill the two mounting holes. |
| From inside the car, push the two M8 x 30mm bolts through the newly drilled holes by putting the bolt on the tip of a magnet tool. Have a helper place the bearing over the bolts. Install and tighten the nuts. |
| From inside the car, apply grease to the unpainted portion of the rod and the bearing. Insert the front shift tube into the bearing. Attach the shifter to the shift rod and bolt the shifter into place. Adjust the shift rod so that about ¾ inch of the rod is inserted into the clamp and tighten the pinch bolt. |
| Install the rubber boot (3) over the shift rod and onto the firewall bearing. Secure the boot onto the bearing with the large tie wrap. |
| Remove the console linkage bushing. Fit the linkage support (4) into the shift console. The threaded holes go up, closed side away from transmission, and short round extension goes into the original bushing hole. Push the support outward while maintaining full contact on the upper surface. Clamp in place and mark the two mounting holes. Remove the support and drill holes. |
| Install new ball cup bushing (5). Reinstall support and bolt in place with M8 x 16mm bolts. Install shift cup on the bushing and face the threaded hole down. Test fit the shift rod by inserting from the front and passing through the shift cup. Once it is fully in, align the flat with the hole in the shift cup and install the M8 x 16mm bolt. Move the linkage through the gears (a rubber mallet may be required). Check that the shift cup does not hit the support when fully forward or back. If it does, adjust the position of the support or grind some material off of the shift cup at the point of contact. Very slight contact at full engagement is allowed, there does not have to be actual clearance. Too much interference will result in a bent support, though. |
| Remove the shift rod and bolt, but leave the shift cup in place. Apply some grease to the bronze bushings in the support. |
| Hook the rear hole of the console cap (6) over the rear of the support and push the cap into place. Make sure it is not pushed on too far. Move the cap to position properly to clear both front and rear shift rod exits. Push the boot adapter over the linkage support so the flat portion clears the edge of the console. Clamp the cap in place. |
| Insert the shift rod from the front and carefully pass through the shift cup. Once it is fully in, align the flat with the hole in the shift cup and install the M8 x 16mm bolt. Install the round cover plug (7) and front and rear console rubber boots (8). Add a bead of silicone between the console cap and the rear boot adapter to seal this joint. |
| Push the rear shift rod back to engage one of R/2/4 gears. Push the shifter into 2nd gear position. Install the u-joints (9) on both shafts, and install the stub shafts (10) into both u-joints. The center shift tube can now be measured and made. The tube will be approximately 26” overall length, but should be measured for your installation. |
| If the car is a 4 cylinder and it is desired to use an original shift tube to create the new center tube, then the following dimensions can be used. Measure and mark 10” and 32-3/4” from the transmission end of the tube. Cut at both marks. Fit this tube into position on the car over both u-joint stub shafts. Tack in place, then remove and fully weld. |
| Lightly tighten the clamp bolt through the hole in the shifter
plate and check the adjustment.
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| Once the center tube is installed, adjust the shifter as usual. Have a helper move the shifter through its full range while the shift tube clearance is verified. |